By Rick VanSickle
Honsberger Estate Winery has a farming history that dates back more than 200 years, but it’s only been the last 20 that grapes made it into what it is today.
The sixth generation of the Honsberger family, led by Barbara Honsberger Condotta and husband Robert Condotta, ripped out the cherry trees in 2002 and planted Cabernet Franc and then the apple trees were removed to plant Riesling. A plan for the future of the farm, founded in 1811, was clear in their minds but it would be a slow and methodical labour of love to get it where it is now.
For a short period, some of those grapes were sold to other wineries but the family was eventually convinced to take the next step in their evolution and start their own label under the family name using grapes from 11 acres under vine. The family just celebrated their 10th anniversary as a winery and popular dining spot both in the Small Barn Restaurant and on the patio for wood-fired pizza. Hundreds attended
The family has kept the portfolio of wine, originally made by Kelly Mason and now Matt Smith, small and boutique in nature, with Riesling and Cabernet Franc considered their flagship varieties. Mason, now with her own label (Mason Vineyard and head winemaker at Domaine Queylus), was a hands-off winemaker, using minimalist techniques in the cellar, wild fermentation, very few additions, judicious use of oak and most wines made in a super dry, yet textured, style. Under Smith, who worked with Mason on the portfolio from the very beginning, the wines are made similarly, which now includes Sauvignon Blanc, Gamay, Chardonnay, rosé and sparkling wines, a new batch of which will be released in time Christmas.
Honsberger uses the estate fruit it grows at its vineyard in Jordan, sources what else it needs from “friends’ grapes” under the “Hand Shake” label and is in the process of replanting Gamay (which they originally planted a year ago) and Cabernet Franc at the farm as well as a new planting of Pinot Noir.
With Smith as the winemaker, the operation at Honsberger is truly a family affair. While Barbara Honsberger Condotta runs the operation, her husband Robert Condotta can be found on a tractor managing the vineyard (and chasing political aspirations), daughter Britney Condotta, a Cordon Bleu chef, presides over the outdoor bistro and main restaurant (and also runs her own shop — on pause right now — onsite called Cultivate Niagara that sells everything from maple syrup, to vegetables, bread and pastries to wool and art, and now Smith as the newly named head winemaker, who is also married to Britney.
It’s not only winery where Smith makes wines. The recipient of the 2024 Paul Pender Rising Star Award at the Ontario Wine Awards (see photo below), is also the winemaker at Cloudsley Cellars, Kirby Estates and Trois Moineaux, a brand made at Cloudsley. This is one busy family!
Smith’s wine journey began at the age of 13 at Thirty Bench, and he continued to grow his experience and skills with production stints at Trius, Southbrook, Bachelder (2015 vintage) and Domaine Queylus, where he worked with Thomas Bachelder and Mason. Smith’s passion for winemaking led him to enrol in the winery and viticulture technician program at Niagara College. After graduating, he landed his current position as winemaker for Cloudsley.
Smith took some time out of his busy schedule to taste some new and upcoming wines at Honsberger with Wines in Niagara. Barbara Honsberger Condotta joined us. Smith and Kelly made the 2022 wines, Smith made the 2023 white wines and rosé from start to finish. Here is what I liked (all wines are available now online here or at the winery unless otherwise noted).
Honsberger Riesling 2023 ($24, not released yet, 92 points) — “It’s a shame Niagara can’t sell more Riesling,” Smith laments. “We can make a consistent style year after year.” I feel Smith’s pain; no other variety performs better than Riesling from vintage to vintage throughout Niagara. It rarely disappoints as long as you know what you are buying and the style you want to buy. This Riesling from the farm’s Creek Shores sub-appellation is my kind of Riesling at only 4 g/l of residual sugar and 12% abv with a beautiful floral, stony nose of lemon-lime zip, grapefruit, yellow apples, touch of peach and freshening saline. The full range of bright citrus is the first note on the palate followed by pear, apple and juicy acidity keeping it all fresh and vibrant on the back end. You can comfortably cellar to 2030.
Honsberger Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($30, 91 points) — One of both Smith and Mason’s favourite farms to source fruit from is the Schuele Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation, especially this Savvy from 25-year-old vines. This was left on the skins for two hours with some lees aging. It has an attractive nose of kiwi, grapefruit, floral accents, pear and lightly brushed with herbs. It has a supple texture, some weight for Sauvignon Blanc and quite rich and concentrated with an array of kiwi, stone fruits, integrated herbs and a bright, juicy finish.
Honsberger Chardonnay 2022 (price N/A, 93 points) — This Chardonnay from the Schuele Vineyard is wild fermented and barrel fermented and aged in neutral French oak barrels for 18 months. It has a pretty, perfumed nose of pear, bergamot, yellow apple, lemon tart and integrate spice notes. It shows good concentration on the palate with ripe pear/apple/quince, lemon meringue, elegant spice notes and fresh salinity on the lifted, finessed finish. Can cellar to 2029.
Honsberger Rosé 2023 ($24, 90 points) — This estate rosé is a clonal blend of 100% Cabernet Franc that was whole cluster pressed from low yields. “I like the fruit and acid balance of Cabernet Franc,” said Smith. The nose is a touch reductive, but blows off quickly to reveal brambly red berries, herbs, red currants and just a whiff of pomegranate and citrus. The reduction note disappears on the palate leaving juicy cherries, strawberries, black raspberries, some earthy/savoury notes in a dry style that has plenty of zip through the finish.
Honsberger Gamay 2023 ($32, 92 points) — The Gamay was sourced from the Twenty Mile Bench. It has an enticing nose of persistent dark cherries, black raspberries, plums, a touch of pepper and anise. It’s bright and lifted with a melange of red berries, plums, earthy notes, anise, savoury herbs and a vibrant finish with mouth-watering acidity.
Honsberger Cabernet Franc 2022 ($39, 93 points) — This is a blend of estate fruit and grapes sourced from Niagara-on-the-Lake. It was aged for 18 months in neutral French oak barriques. It is loaded with powerful, classic aromas of concentrated dark cherries, raspberry compote, cassis, anise, spice and lovely underlying herbaceous notes. The palate highlights savoury red berries, anise, some chalky/earthy notes, medium+ tannins, licorice, a touch of pepper, light tannins and a big, juicy finish. Lovely wine that will offer reward through 2030.
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